Steady progress!

[mick]

As my entry for the non-existant MTRC cup for slowest recommin ever, I finally got the MT500 fired up today after several years. It sounds and goes like a goodun. Only problem now is it don't stop as the front disc set up is proving a sod to bleed, even with a standard bleed nipple rather than the ball bearing affair. Fluid goes through the system and out the nipple (when open), nut firm it is not. Oh, and the rear stop loght switch is being naughty resulting in me having to fiddle with the spring.

Hopefully the next installment of completing bike for MoT won't take quite so long!

Mick

[frenchy3]

Have you tried wrapping a bit of ptfe tape around the threads of the bleed nipple so air cannot get back in past the loose threads as you bleed it. Also a non return valve in the rubber tube you bleed the brake with will help. I also would try putting an elastic band around the brake lever pulling it back towards the bars and leave it applied all night with the cover off the reservoir and covered by a plastic bag/cling film or similar,the air should come out that way. Some people even have to raise the caliper above the level of the reservoir to get the air out. Good luck with it. You may even find the piston seal in the master cylinder has seen better days.
Steve.

[bth2bth2]

endevour to persevere my friend. youll get there.


brian

[ZIP TIE]

Have you still got the original brake lines fitted ie combined rubber hose and non flexible pipe?
If yes change them for one piece braided hose as the originals only have a service life of about 4 years and tend to start ballooning thus loosing lots of brake force.

[mick]

Many thanks for the tips pals.

My latest thought is that as the fluid is going down the pipe ( one oiece courstey of Apropris) it may be that I have assembled the capiler wrongly when I renewed all the seals astuff. Here goes, fingers crossed!

[freddy54]

mick top up the cyl and pump slowly until you have "some" pressure , then tie back (cable tie/tape) the lever back overnight , and then in the morning check it , repeat over several nights if need be , a solid lever will result

with the cyl lever pulled back , small bubbles will rise upwards and into the cyl , and the system will self bleed over a few days

[Wirralman]

I found that I couldn't get enough fluid through the system to get any sort of feel at all. Eventually I wound the adjuster nut right to the end and found that I could shift enough fluid to get some pressure. I found that until you have that tying back the lever doesn't do the trick. Just one turn on the adjuster nut to give the mast cyl piston fullest travel makes a world of difference. I found out the hard way and it was talking the problem through with a mate that led to my solution . Good luck with it and tie back with a bungee is an excellent way of getting the final bite Eric

[mick]

Many thnks again.


My current thought are along the lines of "did I re-assemble the calper right", as fluid comes out of the bleed nipple but no further strentgh from the caliper..

Tommorow's task is t re-strip caliper and check.


Mick

[mick]

Evening all,

Didn't strip the caliper as when I dropped it ( with hose in situ) I found that pumping the master cylinder made the pads close, thus I deduce the caliper is OK. Trouble being that the master cylinder doesn't seem to provide the pressure required to work the pads under pressure. Is this solved by the options posed by earlier threads or is the master cylinder stuffed?

Mick

[Wirralman]

Hi mick
As I posted earlier you need the full extent of the mast piston to get anywhere . You can buy the refurb kit, mast piston, spring and small pin. About 4 years ago the kit was £20 from memory Ex normal suppliers, see FAQ
The refurb kit should sort you out
Good luck, Eric