womble's winter wheels....
womble's winter wheels....
I’ve had my MT since the end of March and always intended it to be my daily winter transport. Got a bit of time off over the Christmas period so I thought I’d start a thread in this section and post up some details of how I spent some spare time in the summer making what I planned to be a safe and reliable bike for winter commuting and general running around. Throughout the course of the work I had to keep telling myself it was only meant as a winter hack and therefore the cosmetics were left pretty much alone. A lot of the extra odds and sods I’ve fitted came from a stash accumulated over many years but even so, as with all these type of exercises, I ended up spending a little more than originally intended.
Here’s what I started out with.........
By way of background, I’ve been riding year-round since the late seventies and have accumulated a small collection of bikes (I currently have four on the road plus others in various states) and am a bit of a fan of singles. I have always done all my own servicing and repairs except where the need to preserve warranty has meant using dealers, but even then I don’t really trust anyone else to work on my bikes.
MTs first came to my attention sometime in the mid-nineties when I got talking to a guy with an MT500 at the start of the National Rally. I liked the apparent ruggedness of the MT, but having owned an XT550 previously, was not over-enamoured with the idea of going back to kick-start only and a single leading shoe front brake. I later looked at a 350 when I took the kids to a local ‘Army day’, but it was a few more years before I really started to search seriously for one and even went so far as paying Force a visit to look at their offerings which were a bit too expensive for what I had in mind. I carried on looking for one to come up locally in the right condition and at the kind of price I had in mind and had just about given up when this one more or less fell into my lap.
I’d been helping out a mate with a bike repairs business and a customer brought in an MT fresh from Withams with a broken cam belt. Having experience with these engines, I got the job of replacing the belt. Overall the bike was in better condition than a lot of other MTs I’d seen in the previous few years and after fitting the new belt and firing it up for the first time in gawd knows how long, it didn’t run too badly either. The owner took the bike away together with a new battery he’d bought and came back a week or so later for an MOT. It then went away again and was next seen a few weeks later outside his house with a ‘For Sale’ sign on it. Discreet third party enquiries revealed an asking price circa 1200 quid – more than I wanted to pay – but there were no takers.
A few more weeks went by without the bike being sold and after some more discreet enquiries to establish a likely acceptable price, I went to look at it. As well as replacing the cam belt and battery, the owner had also fitted new side panels and had the tank re-sprayed. However, since getting the bike MOT’d and registered he’d only ridden it two miles and said he couldn’t get on with it and it was too tall and too fast for him. I gave the machine another once-over that revealed an in-service date of March 1997 which I guess makes it quite a late one. After I had fired it up, we agreed on a three figure sum.
I then rode the bike round to my mate’s workshop intending to check it over properly. The journey proved to be a bit of an experience. The bike ticked over ok, but on pulling away the engine would pretty much die and then lurch away rather abruptly – maybe the previous owner thought this was just the way the bike was meant to be? A morning in the workshop spent carefully cleaning the carb and setting it up properly together with a few other minor adjustments and I rode the twelve miles home on an altogether better behaved machine. The fork action was poor and the engine a bit noisy but it steered straight, handled ok and at one point I rattled it up to an indicated 70 on the clock.
After getting it home, I drained the fuel system completely and then stood the bike up for a couple of months whilst I concentrated on getting a few jobs done on some of my other bikes. Around about the end of May and armed with a list that would get a bit longer before I was finished, work started in earnest.
More to follow.......
womble
Here’s what I started out with.........
By way of background, I’ve been riding year-round since the late seventies and have accumulated a small collection of bikes (I currently have four on the road plus others in various states) and am a bit of a fan of singles. I have always done all my own servicing and repairs except where the need to preserve warranty has meant using dealers, but even then I don’t really trust anyone else to work on my bikes.
MTs first came to my attention sometime in the mid-nineties when I got talking to a guy with an MT500 at the start of the National Rally. I liked the apparent ruggedness of the MT, but having owned an XT550 previously, was not over-enamoured with the idea of going back to kick-start only and a single leading shoe front brake. I later looked at a 350 when I took the kids to a local ‘Army day’, but it was a few more years before I really started to search seriously for one and even went so far as paying Force a visit to look at their offerings which were a bit too expensive for what I had in mind. I carried on looking for one to come up locally in the right condition and at the kind of price I had in mind and had just about given up when this one more or less fell into my lap.
I’d been helping out a mate with a bike repairs business and a customer brought in an MT fresh from Withams with a broken cam belt. Having experience with these engines, I got the job of replacing the belt. Overall the bike was in better condition than a lot of other MTs I’d seen in the previous few years and after fitting the new belt and firing it up for the first time in gawd knows how long, it didn’t run too badly either. The owner took the bike away together with a new battery he’d bought and came back a week or so later for an MOT. It then went away again and was next seen a few weeks later outside his house with a ‘For Sale’ sign on it. Discreet third party enquiries revealed an asking price circa 1200 quid – more than I wanted to pay – but there were no takers.
A few more weeks went by without the bike being sold and after some more discreet enquiries to establish a likely acceptable price, I went to look at it. As well as replacing the cam belt and battery, the owner had also fitted new side panels and had the tank re-sprayed. However, since getting the bike MOT’d and registered he’d only ridden it two miles and said he couldn’t get on with it and it was too tall and too fast for him. I gave the machine another once-over that revealed an in-service date of March 1997 which I guess makes it quite a late one. After I had fired it up, we agreed on a three figure sum.
I then rode the bike round to my mate’s workshop intending to check it over properly. The journey proved to be a bit of an experience. The bike ticked over ok, but on pulling away the engine would pretty much die and then lurch away rather abruptly – maybe the previous owner thought this was just the way the bike was meant to be? A morning in the workshop spent carefully cleaning the carb and setting it up properly together with a few other minor adjustments and I rode the twelve miles home on an altogether better behaved machine. The fork action was poor and the engine a bit noisy but it steered straight, handled ok and at one point I rattled it up to an indicated 70 on the clock.
After getting it home, I drained the fuel system completely and then stood the bike up for a couple of months whilst I concentrated on getting a few jobs done on some of my other bikes. Around about the end of May and armed with a list that would get a bit longer before I was finished, work started in earnest.
More to follow.......
womble
0 x
You can stick yer cars!
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Great story womble and a fine looking 350 too!
0 x
SPORTAX Racing ROTAX
http://www.sportaxracing.co.uk
MTRC Shopkeeper
http://sportaxracing.co.uk/product-category/mtrc-shop/
Manuals & Technical Publications on above MTRC shop link
http://www.sportaxracing.co.uk
MTRC Shopkeeper
http://sportaxracing.co.uk/product-category/mtrc-shop/
Manuals & Technical Publications on above MTRC shop link
Re: womble's winter wheels....
"He makes good use of the things he can find. Things that we every day folk leave behind"Franc wrote:Nice one, sounds like you bagged a bargain.
0 x
Can-am Bombardier 250 [McQueen]
Honda Valkyrie 1500 [Star ship cruiser]
VW T4 Surf bus [but dont surf]
If you have to ask "WHY" then you wont understand!!!
Honda Valkyrie 1500 [Star ship cruiser]
VW T4 Surf bus [but dont surf]
If you have to ask "WHY" then you wont understand!!!
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Hmmmm.... sounds like you’ve seen inside my shed Murdock... anyhow, back to the story...
Chassis
A check of the tyres – nearly new looking Michelin Siracs – showed that they were fitted the correct way round and had plenty of tread. Wheels were true but the rims were a bit scruffy from careless tyre changes.
Brakes. These got a full rebuild with new master cylinder kits and pipes. With this done and fresh fluid together with a new set of pads in the front the whole lot felt much better. A new rear brake light switch also had to be fitted when the existing one fell apart.
Front forks. These were stripped to change the oil and I also intended to add some preload spacers. Two problems arose. Firstly, on removing the front wheel, one of the spindle retaining studs broke. Luckily the broken end was easily removed. The cause of the poor fork action was revealed when the total amount of oil that came out of both fork legs was same as should have been in one leg. With the correct amount of oil and 25mm spacers, the fork action was dramatically improved and better matched to the rear. The second problem came to light when I reassembled the front end and the reason for the looseness of one of the top yoke pinch bolts was found to be stripped threads. New bottom fork studs and top yoke were added to the list - I was pleased to find that the latter are relatively inexpensive. The gaitors and their retaining clips were in good condition as were the handlebar and headlight mounting rubbers.
A hot summer day in womble's outdoor workshop:
Stands / stops. Right at the start, before I even owned the bike, I’d noticed a missing centre stand spring and also that the centre stand was bent and hung down a lot lower on one side than the other. This latter issue made it very hard to get the bike off the stand. Luckily for me, a brand new centre stand popped up on e*ay and was obtained for half the price listed by the usual suppliers. Both springs and bushes were also replaced at the same time. The side stand stop needed to be bent into the correct position.
As bought, one of the brackets holding the CDI to the frame had broken off across the weld. Handily, it was still bolted to the unit and I made a short spacing piece to enable it to be welded back on at the correct angle without risking damage to the CDI unit. I hadn’t touched a welder for about twenty years, but borrowed a portable MIG and had a go – apologies if the result offends anyone that can actually do it properly....
More later...
womble
Chassis
A check of the tyres – nearly new looking Michelin Siracs – showed that they were fitted the correct way round and had plenty of tread. Wheels were true but the rims were a bit scruffy from careless tyre changes.
Brakes. These got a full rebuild with new master cylinder kits and pipes. With this done and fresh fluid together with a new set of pads in the front the whole lot felt much better. A new rear brake light switch also had to be fitted when the existing one fell apart.
Front forks. These were stripped to change the oil and I also intended to add some preload spacers. Two problems arose. Firstly, on removing the front wheel, one of the spindle retaining studs broke. Luckily the broken end was easily removed. The cause of the poor fork action was revealed when the total amount of oil that came out of both fork legs was same as should have been in one leg. With the correct amount of oil and 25mm spacers, the fork action was dramatically improved and better matched to the rear. The second problem came to light when I reassembled the front end and the reason for the looseness of one of the top yoke pinch bolts was found to be stripped threads. New bottom fork studs and top yoke were added to the list - I was pleased to find that the latter are relatively inexpensive. The gaitors and their retaining clips were in good condition as were the handlebar and headlight mounting rubbers.
A hot summer day in womble's outdoor workshop:
Stands / stops. Right at the start, before I even owned the bike, I’d noticed a missing centre stand spring and also that the centre stand was bent and hung down a lot lower on one side than the other. This latter issue made it very hard to get the bike off the stand. Luckily for me, a brand new centre stand popped up on e*ay and was obtained for half the price listed by the usual suppliers. Both springs and bushes were also replaced at the same time. The side stand stop needed to be bent into the correct position.
As bought, one of the brackets holding the CDI to the frame had broken off across the weld. Handily, it was still bolted to the unit and I made a short spacing piece to enable it to be welded back on at the correct angle without risking damage to the CDI unit. I hadn’t touched a welder for about twenty years, but borrowed a portable MIG and had a go – apologies if the result offends anyone that can actually do it properly....
More later...
womble
0 x
You can stick yer cars!
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Great story ! looking forward to the next bit now ...
attached is my bike repleat with new gun box.
Anubis
0 x
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Engine etc
It had always been my intention to replace the 350 engine with an MZ 504e unit I had. I used the Apophis designed and sourced adapter plate to straighten the inlet tract and fitted the outer covers from the 350 unit, together with the starter motor, kick-start and gear levers as these were aleady black in colour. The MZ engine parts that were required were painted black. On closer inspection, the original 350 engine had clearly been messed about with at some stage in the past. There was a lot of swarf on the drain plug and the gearbox output shaft had some end-float – a lot more than the 504e engine. The cam drive tensioner and idler bearings were also somewhat noisy on the 350 lump.
Donor bike breaks cover for the first time in about three years.
Clutch rebuild – The 504e engine has done 70k km and the clutch had a badly worn basket that had some serious notches in it towards the outer edge, however, both the metal and friction plates were in good condition. The clutch in the 350 engine was the opposite – a good condition basket but with some badly blued metal plates and friction plates with almost no material left on them. The pushrod adjustment screw on the 350 lump had been wound in so that it sat lower than the locknut – a sure sign of excessive wear. A good clutch was therefore built up using a mixture of parts from both engines.
Worn clutch basket from MZ engine after 70,000 km...
One of the blued clutch plates that came out of the 350 engine:
Flywheel weight – This was an MZ-supplied extra that I bought sometime in the mid-nineties for about twenty quid and had never fitted. This seemed like a good opportunity. The unit fits closely to the back of the rotor using four high-tensile allen screws that are supplied with it. I put a good dollop of strong Loctite on these. When the modified rotor is re-fitted it runs very much closer to the crankcase and means that the wiring for the ignition trigger needs to be re-routed. As for the difference this mod has made however, due to the length of time since I’ve ridden the MZ500 and the altered gearing, I can’t really tell how its changed the feel of the engine – it runs nicely though at 30mph in fourth with top being ok from about 35 without snatching.
Actual swap over of the engine went reasonably smoothly. The rear engine mounting bolt from the MZ was used to support one side of the swinging arm when the pivot bolt was withdrawn. Getting the bigger lump in the frame was a very tight fit with the larger cooling fins on the 504e top end, but was accomplished without removing any metal and with only a modicum of bad language. The engine was treated to all new oil pipes and clamps – very cheap at my local hydraulic factors.
One interesting thing I noticed is a difference in the balancer drives gears between my 350 and 504 engines. The 504 had a much wider ‘scissor-type’ gear on the crankshaft:
350....
504...
Til the next instalment....
womble
It had always been my intention to replace the 350 engine with an MZ 504e unit I had. I used the Apophis designed and sourced adapter plate to straighten the inlet tract and fitted the outer covers from the 350 unit, together with the starter motor, kick-start and gear levers as these were aleady black in colour. The MZ engine parts that were required were painted black. On closer inspection, the original 350 engine had clearly been messed about with at some stage in the past. There was a lot of swarf on the drain plug and the gearbox output shaft had some end-float – a lot more than the 504e engine. The cam drive tensioner and idler bearings were also somewhat noisy on the 350 lump.
Donor bike breaks cover for the first time in about three years.
Clutch rebuild – The 504e engine has done 70k km and the clutch had a badly worn basket that had some serious notches in it towards the outer edge, however, both the metal and friction plates were in good condition. The clutch in the 350 engine was the opposite – a good condition basket but with some badly blued metal plates and friction plates with almost no material left on them. The pushrod adjustment screw on the 350 lump had been wound in so that it sat lower than the locknut – a sure sign of excessive wear. A good clutch was therefore built up using a mixture of parts from both engines.
Worn clutch basket from MZ engine after 70,000 km...
One of the blued clutch plates that came out of the 350 engine:
Flywheel weight – This was an MZ-supplied extra that I bought sometime in the mid-nineties for about twenty quid and had never fitted. This seemed like a good opportunity. The unit fits closely to the back of the rotor using four high-tensile allen screws that are supplied with it. I put a good dollop of strong Loctite on these. When the modified rotor is re-fitted it runs very much closer to the crankcase and means that the wiring for the ignition trigger needs to be re-routed. As for the difference this mod has made however, due to the length of time since I’ve ridden the MZ500 and the altered gearing, I can’t really tell how its changed the feel of the engine – it runs nicely though at 30mph in fourth with top being ok from about 35 without snatching.
Actual swap over of the engine went reasonably smoothly. The rear engine mounting bolt from the MZ was used to support one side of the swinging arm when the pivot bolt was withdrawn. Getting the bigger lump in the frame was a very tight fit with the larger cooling fins on the 504e top end, but was accomplished without removing any metal and with only a modicum of bad language. The engine was treated to all new oil pipes and clamps – very cheap at my local hydraulic factors.
One interesting thing I noticed is a difference in the balancer drives gears between my 350 and 504 engines. The 504 had a much wider ‘scissor-type’ gear on the crankshaft:
350....
504...
Til the next instalment....
womble
0 x
You can stick yer cars!
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Nice bike there
Ever since Ziptie mentioned flywheel weights for these engines I've been planning to turn one up. How thick is your weight? 10mm?
Ever since Ziptie mentioned flywheel weights for these engines I've been planning to turn one up. How thick is your weight? 10mm?
0 x
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Nice Job there.
I must be old, that MZ looks a nice bike to me, ( apart from the top box ) nice Alloy wheels oh and the colour,
I must be old, that MZ looks a nice bike to me, ( apart from the top box ) nice Alloy wheels oh and the colour,
0 x
Re: womble's winter wheels....
Maybe a little thicker than that at the outside edge - probably closer to 10mm where it bolts onto the rotor. It runs very close to the crankcase once fitted.Mr Kay wrote:Nice bike there
Ever since Ziptie mentioned flywheel weights for these engines I've been planning to turn one up. How thick is your weight? 10mm?
womble.
0 x
You can stick yer cars!
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