Project Lola safe in the garage!

[Daj]

have fun buddy!

Daj

[ZONERIDER]

I tried out the soda and battery charger rust remover and it does do what is claimed, ie liquify the rust, not quite wipe off but pretty easy. I tried it on a downpipe (heavily pitted) and an exhaust clamp. Cleaned up the other pipe and clamp with an angle grinder with twisted wire brush, sticking with the wire brush!
The exhaust studs turned out to be 1 sheared, the others too eaten away with rust to get a purchase with double nuts or any of my other extractors.
Took the head off and gripped 1/4 inch of the stud in a 6 inch vice and turned the head forward and back and out the 3 came! Pillar drill for the broken stud tomorrow.
The head stud nuts were well rusted and 2 unscrewed the stud, a bit of a juggle to lift the head and slacken the studs but not too bad.
Head gasket would appear to have been leaking and running rich.
Lifted the barrel just to give it the once over, all seems fine.
Replaced the rusty nuts/bolts with stainless as I went.
Does anyone know why the right hand rear nut is domed? Just curious.
Dismantled and cleaned up the kick start, locked solid with mud and old grease, swivels a treat now.
Painted the exhaust down pipes, clamps and middle section with B&Q BBQ paint, second coat tomorrow.
Parts list to order is getting longer.
More to follow.

[digger]

That cylinder head nut is used in that posistion because it stops oil leaking thru, which does happen if you use a plain nut, believe me , I know

[ZONERIDER]

That cylinder head nut is used in that posistion because it stops oil leaking thru, which does happen if you use a plain nut, believe me , I know

That cylinder head nut is used in that posistion because it stops oil leaking thru, which does happen if you use a plain nut, believe me , I know

Thanks for that, strange but it was the easiest nut to get off.