it started so small

[ASHCROFT]

well it's coming together nicely

oil filter changed

gaskets left, right and underneather changed

front caliper stripped and new pistons seal etc. suprised how easy this was now got the pain of bleeding!!!!!!

new braided hoses on front and rear with new pads all round so got to bleed the rear as well arghhh

new wheels and tyres too shiney :

new cush drive but i was suprised to find no bolt retainers on the rear cush drive (the ones you fold over to stop nuts coming out) so it appears be riding withone since bought so will be ok for a while until i get some

exhaust back on

so just got to do before stafford

new m14 wahser for rear wheel lost in my s**t whole of a garage somewhere

bleed all lines

timing belt

put some oil in

new spark plug

tank back on

pannier mouts back on

pray it starts

and if really lucky with time rear mounts on but not looking good

[TDIPower]

good work!!! I must do some bits on the 350 for Friday. Need to get my arse into gear. Still need to get the bathroom finished, some reports done then I can get on.

Pete

[ASHCROFT]

well 9 pm and just sat down

it starts wipee!!

but still left

new cush drive but i was suprised to find no bolt retainers on the rear cush drive (the ones you fold over to stop nuts coming out) so it appears be riding withone since bought so will be ok for a while until i get some but will try before stafford

m14 rear wheel washer ill get tomorrow

bleed all lines, rears been a bi**H

put new chains and front sprocket on, and short out clutch cable

happy evenings coming along

[Wirralman]

I'd start with bleeding the front brake. That way you will have more time to put pressure on the system , tie back the lever and leave it overnight. That can be sorting itself out whilst you do other jobs
Good luck Eric

[ASHCROFT]

thanks, been and done

[mtt.tr]

, tie back the lever and leave it overnight.
Good luck Eric

Why does this work i have no idea but improved my bike

[TDIPower]

my thoughts on this are that the bleed nipple system on the bike is not like most. A 'normal' nipple is pointed with a hole off set to one side that then runs up the inside so when you crack it off the fluid/air has a free/direct path out. The brembo units have a ball bearing in the hole then the nipple doesnt have the point, its just like a bolt with a hole through the centre so the ball seals the caliper by being pressed into the hole by the nipple which inturn is sealed by the ball stopping water gettng into the inside of the threads. This is good as you dont get the issues the same with nipples rusting from the inside out into the caliper BUT when you crack off the nipple and pump the fluid the ball bearing pushes up against the base of the nipple sealing it off. So with the lever pulled back and the nipple open you basicly have a pipe with open ends and gravity becomes your friend.
Ive tried traditional, pressure and vacuum bleeding systems on MT brakes and have to say the traditional combined with the clamp open the master is the most effective.

Pete

[ASHCROFT]

might sound like a silly question, when you tie the lever back and open the bleed nipple do you leave the top on the cylinder to stop all the fluid going through

[Roy W]

might sound like a silly question, when you tie the lever back and open the bleed nipple do you leave the top on the cylinder to stop all the fluid going through

Yes you can leave the cylinder lid on. The microscopic air bubbles just return to the cylinder and are replaced by fluid. You may have to top up afterwards depending how much air comes out.

Roy

[ASHCROFT]

so thats the front one done, although the pistons are not pulling back in enough once applied

i did the full strip and new seals and pistons so will see if it settles down


on to the back one now