MT350 project

[frenchy3]

Hi, i have just done 1500 miles on my MT 350 on a trip to france and i developed an oil leak exatly the same as you described. It was coming out of the clutch cable boot(not overfilled) and leaking down the left hand casing into the bashplate and dribbling onto the floor when on its side stand.
I tried to stop it by tightly lockwiring the boot top and bottom but i think the o ring has gone on the cable. I will have to look at it when i have more time,i lost about 1/2 litre in eight days mostly when the bike was cruising at 55-60 mph.
Steve.

[fitzpatrick]

Oil leak is sorted.

[fitzpatrick]

So far I have changed the rear tyre, sprockets, chain, massive gunk clear up, wired a spare clutch cable, drained oil, changed filters, plug, battery, grips, indicators, speedo cable, nut and bolts, and heat res. sleeving on electrical wires. Still need to do front tyre.. the tyres are far more difficult than I expected, calipers - repair front, replace back, brake lines, get oil/fuel lines sorted and a new exhaust at some point would be nice.

Is there anything else I may as well do while it's in this state?

Looking tidier every day!

[TDIPower]

Change the front sprocket to a 16T so you can cruse a little better, do the carb mod if you havent. Im currently testing mine with a 17T, carb mod and the side off the air box. I flick into 5th gear at 65-70mph now!!! it pulls great through the lower gears. Im going to drop to a 16T and stick the side back on the air box as im not a fan of loads of noise. With the cover on the air box it wouldnt pull the 17T in 5th

Pete

[fitzpatrick]

Haha amazing! Mine only just gets to 70/75 and then I feel like I'm hurting it. I usually leave it at 65. I just bought a brand new front sprocket, so I might wait till next time. You leave the whole cover off the airbox? I've got earplugs so don't mind noise I will do the carb mod, thanks.

Edit- damn, didn't realize I'd need a drill for the carb mod. It might have to wait a little while too.

[frenchy3]

I cut out the snorkels on the top of the airbox,induction noise is louder but it runs a lot better in conjunction with the carb mods.

[TDIPower]

Ive only taken the side off just to see if it could pull with the 17T I fitted. It does so fantasticly BUT when ive run without cover before i drop from 59mpg to 45mpg... im hoping the extra tooth or two will make up the difference.
Im going to use a 16T so i can still offroad the bike but get a better top end.

Pete

[fitzpatrick]

Running and riding like a dream, I'm just struggling with the callipers now. I think I'll have to take it somewhere as I'm having no luck whatsoever. Can't bleed the brake line, don't have expensive bleeding equipment and it's just not working the old fashioned way.

[frenchy3]

Have you tried taking the master cylinder from the bars and having it lower when you bleed the system or attaching a syringe full of brake fluid with a piece of tight fitting tube on the bleed screw,cracking it open and forcing the air back out of the master cylinder,before nipping the screw back up.
Also use a strong elastic band or bungee,wrap it around the bars pulling the lever back towards the bars and leave it overnight.(you will need to leave the top off the master cylinder but cover it with a plastic bag or clingfilm) Most of the air bubbles should rise to the top of the fluid.
Steve.

[Wirralman]

I had fun bleeding my front brakes having replaced the piston in the master cylinder and brand new caliper. Tried everything, including putting all of the old parts back, syringe dragging fluid out, raising the caliper etc- still wouldn't bleed. THEN I tried winding what I thought was the span adjuster out a few turns because I'd slackened it off to take the lever off. Instant success- presumably because with each pull of the lever, I was shifting just that bit more fluid out of the master cylinder. Worth a try if you haven't done so already