My 4th MT

[appyarry]

I'm using the standard 40 mm HD CV. I love it, well, since I managed to clean the slow running (idle) circuit properly. It is 80 MPG regular and since the airbox mod and a 16 tooth sprocket, it runs faster that I want to go on old trail tyres with cracks all round the walls. I will have to replace the rear and will probably do the front as well before the next MOT.

Ta,

[William]

Well, its been a while and whilst my E/S mt is apart (sprag clutch related) i thought i would just try and get this going. So swapped the tank, carb float jet , kickstart and gear lever over. Then got down to fault finding, which resulted in me spending a long time with a multi-meter, soldering iron, ferric chloride solution, and wiring diagram. I traced the fault back to the slow idle trigger coil, the wires had been very poorly repaired a while ago (by someone else!!) But anyway once they were cleaned and rejoined i got a spark!! I then filled it up with oil ( as its not been run in an age i intend to do a filter and full oil change once its done a few weeks work as i know it will be filled with crud)

Now this engine has not been run since ive had it which is around 4 years, and from the looks of it some time before that! So i expected to have an uphill struggle, however i was very happily surprised, on the 2nd kick she roared into life! (and i mean roared, the carb has a fast idle set-up, the cable had very little slack, and no silencer) so once it was fettled i gave it a gentle thrash around the field.

The dellorto 40 is brilliant, it instantly responds to any throttle input. I stopped it a few times to check there were no large oil leaks, and that everything was okay, and it just started up again. I recall with all of my previous ones they have hated starting when hot, but this is eager to go, hot or cold. The only problem it has is when it coughs back it blows the carb off, but a clip will easily fix that.



When i was driving it round i noticed a strange noise coming from the cam-belt cover. So i took it off, and found not only that the tensioner was completely loose (my bad ) but the belt had streched to the point that when the tensioner was in use it could only just apply enough tension. But it was a brand new belt, so i am guessing the cheap ones from ebay are not that good!!

So long term plans are, get all the parts i nicked for it back onto the other bike and some more sourced, tidy it all up, paint it, sort out the mess or joins in the wires (from the pickup coil to the cdi unit there are 4 joins) and use it as a farm bike for the next few months, until its winter again and it can have a full rebuild paint and get registered!!

Here is a vid of a rather gentle ride

[Wirralman]

But it was a brand new belt, so i am guessing the cheap ones from ebay are not that good!!

The belts from some suppliers are Dayco automotive quality. The cheaper one from some sources are made by Dunlop to an industrial (lower spec) standard.

see http://forum.mtridersclub.co.uk/viewtop ... 30&t=12280" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and

http://forum.mtridersclub.co.uk/viewtop ... lit=dunlop" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[TDIPower]

What were you using the ferric chloride for?

Pete

[William]

Cleaning the joints prior to soldering, it makes for a stronger joint.

[TDIPower]

never heard of that one before. Flux yes but not ferric (ive only used that in PCB manufacturing).

Pete