Just bought a heap of scrap

[ZIP TIE]

Wd40 is more of a cleaner really and evaporates too quickly you'd be better just putting engine oil into the plug hole and letting it sit for a while, even better if you can then heat the barrel every so often with a blow lamp or similar

[timbradder]

Ok will do that

[Bunker]

PLEASE POST IN THE CORRECT SECTION in future .

[timbradder]

Sorry bunker which section should it be in

[Bunker]

Have a look through, see if any catch you eye:

http://forum.mtridersclub.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[arceye]

Hmm... Projects looks a good bet.

[timbradder]

Ok I have checked the Crank locking bolt and put some 10/30 engine oil in the pot will leave until sat then find out if its the piston, crank or the gear box that is siezed
correct me if im wrong but my intention is to remove a drive cog coupling the gear box & crank by doing this I will be able to prove or eliminate gear box problems.
if the gearbox proves to be ok can anyone tell me how to determine wether its a crank or piston sieze

[appyarry]

Ok I have checked the Crank locking bolt and put some 10/30 engine oil in the pot will leave until sat then find out if its the piston, crank or the gear box that is siezed
correct me if im wrong but my intention is to remove a drive cog coupling the gear box & crank by doing this I will be able to prove or eliminate gear box problems.
if the gearbox proves to be ok can anyone tell me how to determine wether its a crank or piston sieze

I'm assuming by "checked the Crank locking bolt" that you have ensured that there is NOT a crank locking bolt in place?

Cranks rarely sieze, they physically break and jam sometimes but that is an unlikely scenario on these engines.

Once you have whipped the clutch off or a gear whichever to seperate the crank and drive then as you say you will be able to tell where it is siezed.

If it has siezed up solid then it is likely to be a barrel and piston change, lets hope it is something in the gearbox.


Good luck,

[timbradder]

Ok have made a start and made my first mistake I removed the bottom pully without marking its position first, and there is no mark on the end of the crank

I removed the clutch and the kick start cog sprung out oops
but determined that the gear box is free an seems to be ok so i think the piston must be seized in the barrel so will remove the engine next weekend and try removing the head and barrell.

one quick tec question when i removed the clutch the springs under the plate where there but according to the manual there should also be some washers these were not fitted are these critical an which side of the springs should they be fitted

[Minter]

Ok have made a start and made my first mistake I removed the bottom pully without marking its position first, and there is no mark on the end of the crank

I removed the clutch and the kick start cog sprung out oops
but determined that the gear box is free an seems to be ok so i think the piston must be seized in the barrel so will remove the engine next weekend and try removing the head and barrell.

one quick tec question when i removed the clutch the springs under the plate where there but according to the manual there should also be some washers these were not fitted are these critical an which side of the springs should they be fitted

Sounds like youre having fun Tim, the washers are critical to space the clutch basket, let us know which ones you mean from the manual item number..